Any
historical survey should be a study of continuity as well as of change.
We ought, therefore, to begin by reminding ourselves of what Leeds was like
50 years ago. It was a manufacturing town and a shopping centre, with bustling
streets, prosperous suburbs, and numerous shops, offices, and factories;
it also had much slum property, a smoky atmosphere, and limited social amenities
– it was almost impossible to get a meal in the evening or on Sundays
except in the hotels. The population was about ½ million, including
immigrant Jewish and Irish people. The main occupations were in textiles
(including tailoring), engineering, and leather trades as well as in a great
variety of service industries: shops, building, brewing, transport, printing,
food processing, banking and insurance, local administration and the law,
the Press, radio and sport – all helped to make Leeds a major regional
centre in Yorkshire. It had very little share of the newer industries –
electricals, motor cars, TV, plastics, or consumer durables – but
it was the shopping centre for the 4 million inhabitants of the West Riding
of Yorkshire, a situation of which three significant symbols may be mentioned:
the multiple tailoring factory of Montague Burton, ‘the tailor of
taste’, with the largest canteen in the world; the Headrow, designed
in the 1930s, with Lewis’s department store (the first building in
Leeds to cost £1 million); and the Civic Hall (also from the 1930s),
a symbol of civic action against social problems and of civic pride in industrial
and commercial achievement.
To assess the continuities and changes since c.1950 we can consider the
citizens and their work, their environment, and the amenities they have
come to enjoy. First, the people. During the 20th century the area designated
in legal and governmental terms as Leeds has grown, from 22,000 acres in
1900 to 135,000 plus acres from the 1970s, a geographical enlargement which
has enhanced the city’s regional role. The population appears to have
grown too, from ½ million in 1951 to 706,000 in 1991; but these figures
resulted from the boundary changes which brought many places (like Otley
and Wetherby) into Leeds. Indeed, the total population of the administrative
area now known as Leeds is actually somewhat lower than it was before the
extensive changes in local government of 1974. The character of the local
population has, however, been changed by two waves of immigration: During
the 1940s and 1950s Europeans (Poles, Ukrainians, Hungarians etc.) arrived,
entering textiles and other manufacturing occupations and being relatively
easily assimilated; and from the 1950s to the 1980s people from the ‘New
Commonwealth’ (the Indian sub-continent, the West Indies, and Africa)
settled in the city in significant numbers. Ethnic minorities now form about
6 per cent of the city’s population – they exceed 16 per cent
in Bradford – and have given rise to new social problems and tensions
as well as bringing different languages, religions, and customs, and creating
a demand for exotic foodstuffs in cafés and the Market.
Secondly, when examining the occupations of the people one has to remember
that the last 50 years have seen a gradual decline in Yorkshire’s
importance in the national economy because of both the changing terms of
world trade and international competition: Steel, coal, engineering, textiles
– even the fisheries of Hull, because of Iceland’s policy and
‘Cod War’ – have all suffered. Thus, from the 1950s to
the 1970s the proportion of the Leeds workforce in manufacturing fell from
a half to a third, and in the 1980s alone local manufacturing lost 20,000
jobs. However, prosperity in the city has been sustained by its regional
role and the rapid expansion of its already well established service industries.
Today Leeds is therefore less of a manufacturing, more of a service, town:
building; public utilities; scientific services; the media (local and national
radio, the regional Press, Yorkshire Television); local government; legal
administration; further and higher education. The most important are shops
and catering (employing about 70,000 people in the 1990s), and financial
services (offering some 45,000 jobs, a total still rising). Leeds now has
six of the country’s top legal firms and sixteen of the leading accountancy
firms; the three largest employers in the city are the City Council, the
Civil Service, and the University of Leeds. If local prosperity is now more
than ever dependent on Leeds’s role as a commercial, financial and
service centre it should be remembered that there are fewer locally-owned
major firms, that much of the city’s economy is in the hands of national,
or international, companies, and that Leeds and Yorkshire as a whole are
less wealthy than London, the South-East or parts of the Midlands.
Nevertheless, a measure of local prosperity together with national and local
taxation have paid for noticeable improvements in the town’s environment.
The first changes are probably to be seen in housing. Even in 1950 the West
Riding conurbation had a huge legacy of sub-standard houses – about
one eighth of its total stock of houses – but from the 1950s to the
1970s there was a new campaign against the slums in Leeds. The Corporation
itself built some 45,000 new houses in estates on the city’s outskirts,
large numbers of houses were also built privately, and about two-thirds
of the houses in the city are now owner-occupied. Slum clearance, the inevitable
movement of people away from familiar surroundings, the tower blocks of
flats favoured by architects and planners, all involved loss to communities;
strong local feeling and protests eventually led to the end of large-scale
demolition and a resort to repairs and re-furbishment instead, though structural
difficulties and dilapidation caused the destruction of the famous, European-inspired
blocks of flats at Quarry Hill (a not wholly successful social experiment
of the 1930s). New housing estates were matched by city centre developments
from the 1950s: Older commercial buildings were replaced by structures of
glass and concrete – John Betjeman’s ‘international nothingness’;
there arose new multiple stores, supermarkets, multi-storey car parks, vast
academic buildings, with new ring-roads further away from the centre.
During the sixties and seventies traffic became a greater problem than before,
and new means of management were tried: one-way streets; parking meters
at 6d. (in non-decimal currency) per hour; ‘pedestrianised’
streets in the central shopping area. The problems became more intractable
when the M1 Motorway (London to Leeds) brought innumerable cars, lorries,
and coaches to within a few hundred yards of City Square. The boast of Leeds
was that it was ‘the Motorway city of the seventies’: It was
a disaster, and the attendant difficulties have yet to be solved. Of course,
these developments brought some benefits: more modern accommodation for
many who work in the city centre; new investment; attraction of business,
and financial resources. In short, they bred confidence.
There was a price to be paid, not just in the destruction of the small,
local communities of people who lived in the inner city, but in the loss
of some fine buildings, for example, Gilbert Scott’s Westminster (Nat
West) Bank in Park Row and Gott’s Mill (on Wellington Street), as
well as some plain Georgian houses and pleasant courtyards. In their place
came more cars, as well as some ugly buildings, blots on the landscape,
a few of which have already been demolished. Consequently there was a growing
emphasis on the protection of the urban environment. Leeds was the first
provincial local authority to establish a ‘Green Belt’ round
the built-up area, and there have been successful public and private attempts
to protect such open spaces as the Meanwood Valley and the valley of the
River Aire at Kirkstall. In 1965 Leeds Civic Trust was formed to act as
a focus for conservation, and there have been successful campaigns to prevent
the wholesale demolition of attractive buildings along Boar Lane and to
preserve Kirkgate Market from ‘re-development’ after a serious
fire. A plan to build a by-pass for Headingley – which would have
caused serious damage to pleasant houses and roads between Hyde Park and
St Chad’s Church in Far Headingley (a large area familiar to most
members of the University ) – was eventually defeated, although it
may arise again with the plans to revive the urban tramway. Above all, the
enforcement of the Clean Air Act of 1956 during the years following –
helped by the decline of heavy industry – has freed Leeds from smoke
pollution and made ‘pea-soup’ fogs a thing of the past [see
Traude Heckel’s memories above – Ed.]. By 1993, in the cleaner
environment there were as many as sixty-three conservation areas in the
city.
Some of the measures discussed have helped to ensure that Leeds remains
a place that is easy to get out of. Unlike Manchester or Birmingham the
city has, for the most part, open country near at hand, much of it now well
within the extended city boundary. Changes in the surrounding countryside
have been slower and are less evident than in the city. Working horses on
farms have all but disappeared since the 1960s, farmsteads themselves have
been modernised, with new barns and other buildings often paid for by European
Union funds. Mechanised farming has become predominant since the 1950s,
especially in arable areas, but sheep and cattle are everywhere evident
in the Yorkshire Dales and Moors, with mixed farming (livestock and crops)
elsewhere, whilst on the poorer land visitors will notice huge areas of
renewable forest. Some rural areas have smaller populations than a century
ago, and many village shops, banks, and post offices have closed for want
of trade. In some places, however, rural decline has been partly offset
by weekend cottages occupied by more affluent townspeople, and by commuters
who work in Leeds but live in the Dales or the Vale of York, a way of life
made possible – following the contraction of public transport –
by the motor car. Moreover, increasing numbers of Leeds people have taken
part in the huge growth of tourism in Yorkshire, visiting the Dales and
other National Parks, using the designated long-distance footpaths, sightseeing
at historical monuments (of which Yorkshire has a plenitude), enjoying Harewood
House, Nostell Priory, and other country houses open to the public, and
availing themselves of the agreeable pubs and restaurants which have multiplied
in villages, many of them within easy reach of Leeds.
As far as amenities and entertainment in the city itself are concerned,
there have been losses as well as gains during the last fifty years. Some
theatres and music halls have closed; in 1939 there were about seventy cinemas,
now there are fewer than a dozen; traditional dance halls and tea shops
have also disappeared, along with some local societies and working-mens’
clubs. On the other hand there are many discos, numerous clubs – ‘clubbing’
has become an important part of student life as well as of youth culture
in general – and a multiplicity of restaurants, many open far into
the night and offering dishes from different parts of the world. With its
recently acquired night life Leeds has become ‘a 24 hour city’,
with accompanying problems of public order. Sport appears to flourish as
well. In 1967 a new swimming pool, built to international competition standards,
was opened; after many years in the doldrums Leeds United has won national
football contests, and professional Rugby sides have also been successful,
although the Yorkshire county cricket team’s record has been far less
impressive than in earlier years.
In cultural matters at the highest level Leeds can now claim three major
achievements: the establishment of the West Yorkshire Playhouse, a permanent
repertory theatre, built on part of the site of the famous Quarry Hill flats;
the renown of the International Pianoforte Competition held in the city;
and the inauguration in 1978 of Opera North, a permanent operatic company
with an international reputation. Every year several series of concerts,
at the Town Hall, the University, and elsewhere, provide a feast of music,
and there are performances by various amateur choirs, musicians, and actors
as well, to enrich the place of the arts in the life of the city. Moreover,
since 1950 Leeds has had, and continues to have close links with important
artistic and general cultural and intellectual activities in other parts
of Yorkshire. Those connections include the differing work of the writer,
Alan Bennett, the sculptor, Henry Moore, and the artist, David Hockney.
They also include various musicians, scientists, and scholars in the humanities.
In addition to the older established universities of Leeds, Sheffield and
Hull, there is the comparatively new (1960s) University of York, as well
as six very new universities, originating in colleges of technology or polytechnics
in Leeds, Sheffield, Huddersfield, Bradford, Hull (and Humberside) and Teesside
– ten Yorkshire universities in all, two of them in Leeds, engaging
in a vast range of subjects and busy in teaching, research, and other forms
of scholarship.
It is not easy to draw up a balance sheet of gains and losses during the
last five decades. The contraction of industry has been accompanied by the
advance of business services with increasingly world-wide connections. Social
problems remain: poverty in some districts, 10 per cent unemployment overall
(compared, however, with Manchester’s 20 per cent), the difficulties
resulting from immigration, pockets of crime, a fractured system of schooling
– all these are characteristics also displayed by other large (and
some not so large) towns. Moreover, there has been in Leeds some loss of
a sense of identity, caused by changes in local government, easier opportunities
for travel, mass culture, the decline of local firms. Nevertheless the physical
changes, the new face of the city, symbolise more welcome developments and
the optimism of achievement. For example, as witness to a measure of prosperity
and an improving quality of life there are the well-kept houses and neat
gardens; the new offices and hotels; the vast St James’s Hospital
(“Jimmy’s” to locals and TV viewers); the regeneration
of the waterfront, and the smart shopping district known as the Victoria
Quarter; the striking building of the Royal Armouries Museum; the refurbished
Central Library; the plans to improve the railway station and the Civic
Hall square. – What these developments indicate about the last 50
years is reasonably clear; what they suggest about the city’s future
no historian should dare to prophesy.
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